NOV. 10TH 2012
WHEN GIANNI FIRST STARTED COMING TO PUGLIA FROM THE NORTH, he was probably in his twenties. At that time, the farmers of olives went to work at their orchard from town (Carvigno) in a donkey-pulled cart. It took about 2-3 hours to get to their farm. The donkey was egged on by the farmers' dog. It was always a white dog barking all the way . The farmer slept the whole way because the donkey knew his way. And the little white dog kept the donkey going at a snails pace. But the farmer got to sleep.
Then the donkey and cart and dog got replaced with a car. And the farmer could not sleep.
But despite the farmer got to drive to work, he still traveled at a snails pace. It still took him 2-3 hours.
This is a true story.
Saturday, November 10, 2012
Wednesday, November 7, 2012
The big olive tree shaker and 3rd week at the olive farm
Nov. 7th 2012
On Monday a tractor came to the olive orchard with an even bigger mover and shaker than the one operated by Antonio (affectionately referred to as 'the little man'). Antonio is actually not little. He is though as wide as he is tall. This arm reached up into the very big olive trees and shook the whole tree like nothing else. One of the problems is that it also breaks branches and does permanent damage to the otherwise very sturdy trees. And if there is any gap between the nets; if some don't overlap, then the olives go flying everywhere, usually in the gaps. This means many hours bending over picking up each olive. This is the dreaded task that causes so much back pain. It's difficult getting up when you're crouched over for any length of time.
Whatever olives remain on the trees after such a shaking will remain a while longer to get more ripe. They are just not ready yet. Which is why sometimes the olive picking goes on until March of the following year.
It's raining just a bit outside today so work has been postponed until this afternoon. This is the second time rain has affected work. It really, really seldom rains here. And most times when it rains here in town, the orchard sees nothing.
LUNCHES WITH GRAZZIELA
Grazziela is a wonderful cook. She stays home every day (outside from going to the market) and plans the next meal for us and Gianni her husband. Most of what she makes is food that I have either made or seen made. This one dish though was different. It was meat stuffed meat. It was like you took a pot roast, flattened it and put a stuffing of meatballs (ground beef, veal, pork,eggs,cheese etc.) on it, rolled it up, tied it and baked it for a long time.
We had risotto made with beef stock (probably from the meat stuffed meat) and cheese. She did not use Arborio which kind of surprised me. Gianni made sure to tell us that there are hundreds of ways to make risotto. I thought Arborio was the only rice used.
Meatballs fried in olive oil. Don't know why she doesn't just bake them on high heat. Gianni cannot eat anything fried. I'd like to make meatballs MY way for her. So he can eat them.
She and Gianni have a cup of Orzoro and a muffin for supper. Orzoro is a barley drink, served hot.
I miss hot dogs and beans (don't have baked beans here).
I miss peanut butter
I miss dark bread
On Monday a tractor came to the olive orchard with an even bigger mover and shaker than the one operated by Antonio (affectionately referred to as 'the little man'). Antonio is actually not little. He is though as wide as he is tall. This arm reached up into the very big olive trees and shook the whole tree like nothing else. One of the problems is that it also breaks branches and does permanent damage to the otherwise very sturdy trees. And if there is any gap between the nets; if some don't overlap, then the olives go flying everywhere, usually in the gaps. This means many hours bending over picking up each olive. This is the dreaded task that causes so much back pain. It's difficult getting up when you're crouched over for any length of time.
Whatever olives remain on the trees after such a shaking will remain a while longer to get more ripe. They are just not ready yet. Which is why sometimes the olive picking goes on until March of the following year.
It's raining just a bit outside today so work has been postponed until this afternoon. This is the second time rain has affected work. It really, really seldom rains here. And most times when it rains here in town, the orchard sees nothing.
LUNCHES WITH GRAZZIELA
Grazziela is a wonderful cook. She stays home every day (outside from going to the market) and plans the next meal for us and Gianni her husband. Most of what she makes is food that I have either made or seen made. This one dish though was different. It was meat stuffed meat. It was like you took a pot roast, flattened it and put a stuffing of meatballs (ground beef, veal, pork,eggs,cheese etc.) on it, rolled it up, tied it and baked it for a long time.
We had risotto made with beef stock (probably from the meat stuffed meat) and cheese. She did not use Arborio which kind of surprised me. Gianni made sure to tell us that there are hundreds of ways to make risotto. I thought Arborio was the only rice used.
Meatballs fried in olive oil. Don't know why she doesn't just bake them on high heat. Gianni cannot eat anything fried. I'd like to make meatballs MY way for her. So he can eat them.
She and Gianni have a cup of Orzoro and a muffin for supper. Orzoro is a barley drink, served hot.
I miss hot dogs and beans (don't have baked beans here).
I miss peanut butter
I miss dark bread
Sunday, November 4, 2012
Old man piazza
Nov. 5th 2012
The piazza (plaza) up at the top of the street where I live is quite lovely with its' cobblestone streets and benches to sit and meet friends. But everyone there during the day, every day consists of old men. Old men who when I walk by just stare and say nothing. In the evening sometimes there are many teenagers meeting up with their friends. There are never any women just hanging around. There are a few businesses but mostly there are these little alcoves or rooms off to the side with sometimes the rubber strips hanging in the doorway (to keep out bugs of which there are usually none). Inside these little rooms are sometimes a table and a few folding chairs. It looks like a place where men meet to sit and play cards or read the newspaper with their friends. But just old men. It's been said that the women are all home cooking. Cooking and the prep associated with the daily cooking is a major event in every household. I don't think anyone just has a "sandwich" for lunch as we do. But lunch is the biggest meal of the day. And being the one to do all the dishes that Graziella makes to prepare our lunch each day, I see all the prep involved. When I think all we are getting for lunch is a bowl of pasta, then she brings out the meat and potato or veg. We don't eat cheese or bread most days as we did at the other 2 farms. Graziella cooks with good health in mind. We all appreciate that.
So the old men in the piazza hang around every day gossiping like old ladies waiting to go home and enjoy the hard labor given up by their wives for their wonderful lunches. Only to go back out to the piazza and meet again.
The piazza (plaza) up at the top of the street where I live is quite lovely with its' cobblestone streets and benches to sit and meet friends. But everyone there during the day, every day consists of old men. Old men who when I walk by just stare and say nothing. In the evening sometimes there are many teenagers meeting up with their friends. There are never any women just hanging around. There are a few businesses but mostly there are these little alcoves or rooms off to the side with sometimes the rubber strips hanging in the doorway (to keep out bugs of which there are usually none). Inside these little rooms are sometimes a table and a few folding chairs. It looks like a place where men meet to sit and play cards or read the newspaper with their friends. But just old men. It's been said that the women are all home cooking. Cooking and the prep associated with the daily cooking is a major event in every household. I don't think anyone just has a "sandwich" for lunch as we do. But lunch is the biggest meal of the day. And being the one to do all the dishes that Graziella makes to prepare our lunch each day, I see all the prep involved. When I think all we are getting for lunch is a bowl of pasta, then she brings out the meat and potato or veg. We don't eat cheese or bread most days as we did at the other 2 farms. Graziella cooks with good health in mind. We all appreciate that.
So the old men in the piazza hang around every day gossiping like old ladies waiting to go home and enjoy the hard labor given up by their wives for their wonderful lunches. Only to go back out to the piazza and meet again.
Wednesday, October 31, 2012
9th day at working the olives
October 31st 2012
I can't believe I've survived 9 days with these olives! It is by far the most physically challenging job I've ever done--ever! And that includes tobacco when I was 14. It's a good thing I went to the gym every day for almost a year before coming here..If I didn't I don't think I'd be able to get out of bed and do this every day. I know 5 1/2 hours each day, 6/days a week doesn't sound like much. But when you are stretching and bending and lifting 40-45 lbs. in each hand carrying the buckets of olives non-stop for the entire 5 1/2 hours, no break even for a drink of water, it hurts!! By 1:30 we are READY not only for a break but to eat! Grazziola (Gianni's wife) makes us a gourmet lunch every day. Every day it is different and we never know what we will get. After we clean up the kitchen and go back (around the corner) to our apartment, it is about 3 o'clock. Nothing is open. Everything closes from 1 till 5. And my body is screaming to lay down! Every day I say to myself that I don't know how I can continue doing this but after a nights' sleep, I get up and don't feel too bad. So I go and do it again and again.
Heli will be going home in 1 1/2 weeks and then I'll get a new roommate from Germany to help with the olives.
Gianni and Franco work right alongside us and truly work as hard as we do. Gianni is 73 and works like he's a youngster. Picking up each olive off the ground that didn't make the net is the most painful part of this job. Well carrying the buckets of olives is hard too but not as painful as the bending and squatting that it takes to pick up the individual olives.
Hoping the next farm in Sicily will be a bit easier.
It's raining tonight for the first time....well.....I think ever.
I can't believe I've survived 9 days with these olives! It is by far the most physically challenging job I've ever done--ever! And that includes tobacco when I was 14. It's a good thing I went to the gym every day for almost a year before coming here..If I didn't I don't think I'd be able to get out of bed and do this every day. I know 5 1/2 hours each day, 6/days a week doesn't sound like much. But when you are stretching and bending and lifting 40-45 lbs. in each hand carrying the buckets of olives non-stop for the entire 5 1/2 hours, no break even for a drink of water, it hurts!! By 1:30 we are READY not only for a break but to eat! Grazziola (Gianni's wife) makes us a gourmet lunch every day. Every day it is different and we never know what we will get. After we clean up the kitchen and go back (around the corner) to our apartment, it is about 3 o'clock. Nothing is open. Everything closes from 1 till 5. And my body is screaming to lay down! Every day I say to myself that I don't know how I can continue doing this but after a nights' sleep, I get up and don't feel too bad. So I go and do it again and again.
Heli will be going home in 1 1/2 weeks and then I'll get a new roommate from Germany to help with the olives.
Gianni and Franco work right alongside us and truly work as hard as we do. Gianni is 73 and works like he's a youngster. Picking up each olive off the ground that didn't make the net is the most painful part of this job. Well carrying the buckets of olives is hard too but not as painful as the bending and squatting that it takes to pick up the individual olives.
Hoping the next farm in Sicily will be a bit easier.
It's raining tonight for the first time....well.....I think ever.
Sunday, October 28, 2012
Walked to the sea today
Sunday Oct. 28th 2012
This being my only day off (always Sunday), I decided to walk to the ocean. But I was corrected on that is NOT the ocean. It is the SEA. It should have been about 8km (5 mi.) but as usual I took the wrong road and being that the street map I had stopped short of just outside the city, I just kept walking East. It was Belvedere Rd. Should have taken Foggia Rd. Well I was walking and walking and walking past these amazing olive farms with HUGE tree trunks all twisted and beautiful. Took way too many pictures because one was more beautiful than the previous one. And I saw the word "VENDESI" many, many times. "For Sale". So many olive farms for sale here. And when I asked why, I was told that the family (children) that these farms are left to after parents are too old or die just want quick money. The younger generation does not want to do the hard work of harvesting olives. I have noticed since I've been here that everyone I see at the farms or on the tractor are older men.
Back to the walk.
I started walking at 8:45 a.m. and 3 hours later saw the sea. I figured this was about 12 km or 8 miles. But I was much more south than I wanted to be. So I kept walking through areas along the sea that during the Summer months (June, July & August) are many, many people on holiday. Now the coast is ghost town after ghost town. Very few cars. No people. It was kind of eerie being all alone with beautiful beaches to my right and vegetable gardens to my left. So some people continue living here. Just didn't see anyone. Finally after walking for 5 1/2 hours, maybe 25 km or 20 miles and seeing a sign to Carovigno 7km I decided to hitch hike. Probably the first time in my life. My feet did not want to walk any more. 3 very nice guys picked me up and drove me home.
Never got to put my feet in the sea.
This being my only day off (always Sunday), I decided to walk to the ocean. But I was corrected on that is NOT the ocean. It is the SEA. It should have been about 8km (5 mi.) but as usual I took the wrong road and being that the street map I had stopped short of just outside the city, I just kept walking East. It was Belvedere Rd. Should have taken Foggia Rd. Well I was walking and walking and walking past these amazing olive farms with HUGE tree trunks all twisted and beautiful. Took way too many pictures because one was more beautiful than the previous one. And I saw the word "VENDESI" many, many times. "For Sale". So many olive farms for sale here. And when I asked why, I was told that the family (children) that these farms are left to after parents are too old or die just want quick money. The younger generation does not want to do the hard work of harvesting olives. I have noticed since I've been here that everyone I see at the farms or on the tractor are older men.
Back to the walk.
I started walking at 8:45 a.m. and 3 hours later saw the sea. I figured this was about 12 km or 8 miles. But I was much more south than I wanted to be. So I kept walking through areas along the sea that during the Summer months (June, July & August) are many, many people on holiday. Now the coast is ghost town after ghost town. Very few cars. No people. It was kind of eerie being all alone with beautiful beaches to my right and vegetable gardens to my left. So some people continue living here. Just didn't see anyone. Finally after walking for 5 1/2 hours, maybe 25 km or 20 miles and seeing a sign to Carovigno 7km I decided to hitch hike. Probably the first time in my life. My feet did not want to walk any more. 3 very nice guys picked me up and drove me home.
Never got to put my feet in the sea.
Friday, October 26, 2012
video cum grano solis (from farm in San Salvatore)
Please watch and listen with volume UP
www.youtube.com
cum grano solis
This is a farm I went to with these people to get the special grain for their bread.
Maria Pia is the woman with dark skin. I lived with her.
Maria Pia is the woman with dark skin. I lived with her.
Carovigno one-liners
I sit in a bar in downtown Carovigno to get free WiFi and listen to English Rock n Roll
Franco (43) who works for Gianni did not speak one word to Gianni for 3 years. He lives with his parents. He's the olive tree climber. He's been with Gianni now for 23 yrs.
One year here in Carovigno it did not rain at all from Feb. till Dec.
Cars here last 45-50 years. In Milan they last about 5. Huge difference in humidity
All teenage boys look the same.. Skinny legs, VERY tight jeans, 3-4 inch mohawk that comes down to about 2 inches above their ears, combed straight up to the middle. Rest is almost shaved (1/2 in. or so)
What I would call 'walk ways' in and around these villages are indeed roads. And if you are walking on these 'walkways' and a car is coming, you have to get up on this very narrow stone curb. Don't dare loose your balance-you'll get your foot run over (or worse).
Many kids go to school on tourist busses. No school busses as we know them.
No peanut butter or baked beans or canned soup----anywhere
or boxed cake mixes
Two WWOOFers came back from Sicily and said there was an unbelievable amount of people
with missing fingers.
From the outside looking in, I think most Italians seem pretty unhappy. Someone is always yelling
and it's usually a woman. I never see anyone with a smile.
In church today, The men sat on the left, women on the right.
45 seconds of hot water here----then wait 30 min. for more.
EVERYTHING is closed on Sunday. (my only day off)
All teenage boys look the same.. Skinny legs, VERY tight jeans, 3-4 inch mohawk that comes down to about 2 inches above their ears, combed straight up to the middle. Rest is almost shaved (1/2 in. or so)
What I would call 'walk ways' in and around these villages are indeed roads. And if you are walking on these 'walkways' and a car is coming, you have to get up on this very narrow stone curb. Don't dare loose your balance-you'll get your foot run over (or worse).
Many kids go to school on tourist busses. No school busses as we know them.
No peanut butter or baked beans or canned soup----anywhere
or boxed cake mixes
Two WWOOFers came back from Sicily and said there was an unbelievable amount of people
with missing fingers.
From the outside looking in, I think most Italians seem pretty unhappy. Someone is always yelling
and it's usually a woman. I never see anyone with a smile.
In church today, The men sat on the left, women on the right.
45 seconds of hot water here----then wait 30 min. for more.
EVERYTHING is closed on Sunday. (my only day off)
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