I arrived here in Catania in the middle of the night and was immediately awe-struck at what I saw. With many street lights still on, I could see some of the ancient architecture that makes this city so amazing. And now I've been walking around town, took a narrated bus tour (30 min.) of the city and had time to spend sitting in the Piazza Duomo just taking it all in. So far I can't really put in to words how amazing I think this city is. I walked through what is labeled on the map as "Fish Market". I took a few pictures of the fresh fish, fruit, meat and veggies that are for sale every day outside in the market but I know no amount of pictures could relay how amazing this place is. Tables and tables and tables of fresh seafood. Whole fish, filleted fish, everything but cooked fish any way you want it. Whole and halved skinned animals hanging (I avoided looking at these) right out there. Not on ice...not refrigerated. I just cannot imagine what it would be like to be a restaurant owner and be able to go to this market every day to shop for your business; much less to have this market available to shop for personal use.
Right outside my door here is a partially dug out portion of the second largest Roman amphitheater in Italy. Second only to the one in Rome. And of course looking down into it, what do I see? Cats with a litter of kittens living down there-playing in one of the rooms. All black and white. So much more to see. But what I have seen so far is so amazing.
I can't believe that within the first 5 minutes of being on the street I have not seen anyone get hit by a car or motorbike. Complete mayhem out there on the street with traffic and pedestrians.
Tomorrow I'm hoping to go to Mt. Etna with its' snow on top. And after, get dropped off at my next farm to start working on Friday. It is in the town of Zefferana Etnea which is noted on my map as a small organic farming community; still part of Catania and in full view of Etna.
Wednesday, December 12, 2012
Monday, December 10, 2012
Barletta
Today was a perfect day in Barletta, a nice-size port town about 20 min. North of Bari. This beautiful day followed 2 very cold, windy and rainy days. I just got back from walking for 4 hours around town. I tried to find a place open that served lunch. No success. There are plenty of places-just not open during the day. So I bought a burrata cheese, salumi and a roll and some olives. Since my hotel does not have a restaurant, I'm kind of on my own. I could always wait until 8p.m. tonight when things start to open but truthfully I still have not gotten used to the Italian way of eating late at night.
The town is very nice with many very old cathedrals in the historic section which is where I'm staying. The streets and sidewalks are cobblestone and like everywhere else I've been (it seems) they like to drive on what I would call a walkway. Too narrow with cars parked every which way. The more modern part of the city has many shops and like all the other places I've seen, have clothing stores with really, really beautiful clothes The style here, as it probably is in U.S. is LEGGINGS or pants that fit like leggings. And boots. Combat style boots mostly. But the winter coats are hideous! Down-filled or a similar look alike. But black, shiny, Hefty garbage bag like exterior. Very bad fashion in the coat dept.
Several places on every street are coffee shops that serve espresso, cappuccino and croissants and cookies. And alcohol. I don't know how any can stay in business. There are THAT many.
The park in the center of town is filled with little, old men standing around talking to each other.
I saw a sign "MYSTIC PIZZA". Took a picture.
I saw something really funny on my way back to the hotel. I came upon a roundabout (rotary) with a lot of traffic going around. Inside the rotary on the grass was a barking dog. I think he wanted to cross but there wasn't a break in the traffic. And a chicken! As soon as there was a break in the traffic, the dog crossed into a parking lot and the chicken followed. There he laid down and the chicken stood close by. I stood by and watched and wished I could take the two home.
The town is very nice with many very old cathedrals in the historic section which is where I'm staying. The streets and sidewalks are cobblestone and like everywhere else I've been (it seems) they like to drive on what I would call a walkway. Too narrow with cars parked every which way. The more modern part of the city has many shops and like all the other places I've seen, have clothing stores with really, really beautiful clothes The style here, as it probably is in U.S. is LEGGINGS or pants that fit like leggings. And boots. Combat style boots mostly. But the winter coats are hideous! Down-filled or a similar look alike. But black, shiny, Hefty garbage bag like exterior. Very bad fashion in the coat dept.
Several places on every street are coffee shops that serve espresso, cappuccino and croissants and cookies. And alcohol. I don't know how any can stay in business. There are THAT many.
The park in the center of town is filled with little, old men standing around talking to each other.
I saw a sign "MYSTIC PIZZA". Took a picture.
I saw something really funny on my way back to the hotel. I came upon a roundabout (rotary) with a lot of traffic going around. Inside the rotary on the grass was a barking dog. I think he wanted to cross but there wasn't a break in the traffic. And a chicken! As soon as there was a break in the traffic, the dog crossed into a parking lot and the chicken followed. There he laid down and the chicken stood close by. I stood by and watched and wished I could take the two home.
Tuesday, December 4, 2012
Fun Facts on Carovigno
I live in a 2nd story apartment on one of the many little streets in Carovigno. As part of this building is another apartment around the corner. That's where Gianni and Grazziella live during the olive harvest. Grazziella was born and grew up in the cellar apartment here where her sister and husband now live. By the way Grazziella's sister is married to Gianni's brother. The street is only about 1/8 mi. long. The apartment down a little from my door I see the priest go in and out somedays. Apparently, as Gianni tells me, there have been several priests come and go in the church in the piazza here. There are 3 women who live here on the street. One likes men in uniforms. The priest always wears his long, black dress- like outfit. She apparently "hosts" the current priest but after a short time he disappears, goes to another church and a new one appears here. The whole time Gianni tells this he's chuckling.
Across the street and down the hill at the corner lives a young girl, maybe 20 or so. Several times a day (maybe 2 or 3) I hear her 2 little dogs barking like crazy. They bark when she puts them on their leashes to take them in the car for a short ride to do their business and then come home. All the while they are barking like crazy, they're wagging their tails madly. I think they are just so happy to get out and go for a ride. Really funny. I've tried to get friendly with her so maybe I could take her dogs for a walk (I miss my animals) but she is stone faced and won't even crack a smile my way. I've given up.
When Gianni first came to Carovigno with his new bride, Grazziella, he said it was a totally different world. NO autos or electronic anything. People had donkeys and the donkeys were kept in the house. I called Gianni on that but he insists they did. Grazziella and family had indoor plumbing but most did not. This was just 50 years ago! There was NO money. Every night the men would go to the piazza (much like they do now). But then it was to meet and discuss who would be going to "the land" the next day to work. There were no phones so they had to meet in person this way. There were no stores. If you needed something like a new dress, you went to the seamstress in town and had one made but traded maybe some vegetables for the dress. Grazziella's dad was a carpenter. There were times when he had a job to do out in "the land" and would move out there for a week or so until the job was done. He might trade for some food. Still NO money exchanged hands. It did not exist in these people's lives
People in town would come to Grazziella's door just to meet this 'man from the North'.
Sometimes a siren would go off alerting everyone of the presence of BANDITS in town. So everyone would go inside their homes and lock their door. If you were left outside, that's where you remained.
Most stores in town today lock their door even during business hours. You must ring the door bell to be let in.
I don't know how Gianni came in to town. He came from modern Milan. I'll have to ask. Get back on this later. I'll have to pick his brain before I leave.
Across the street and down the hill at the corner lives a young girl, maybe 20 or so. Several times a day (maybe 2 or 3) I hear her 2 little dogs barking like crazy. They bark when she puts them on their leashes to take them in the car for a short ride to do their business and then come home. All the while they are barking like crazy, they're wagging their tails madly. I think they are just so happy to get out and go for a ride. Really funny. I've tried to get friendly with her so maybe I could take her dogs for a walk (I miss my animals) but she is stone faced and won't even crack a smile my way. I've given up.
When Gianni first came to Carovigno with his new bride, Grazziella, he said it was a totally different world. NO autos or electronic anything. People had donkeys and the donkeys were kept in the house. I called Gianni on that but he insists they did. Grazziella and family had indoor plumbing but most did not. This was just 50 years ago! There was NO money. Every night the men would go to the piazza (much like they do now). But then it was to meet and discuss who would be going to "the land" the next day to work. There were no phones so they had to meet in person this way. There were no stores. If you needed something like a new dress, you went to the seamstress in town and had one made but traded maybe some vegetables for the dress. Grazziella's dad was a carpenter. There were times when he had a job to do out in "the land" and would move out there for a week or so until the job was done. He might trade for some food. Still NO money exchanged hands. It did not exist in these people's lives
People in town would come to Grazziella's door just to meet this 'man from the North'.
Sometimes a siren would go off alerting everyone of the presence of BANDITS in town. So everyone would go inside their homes and lock their door. If you were left outside, that's where you remained.
Most stores in town today lock their door even during business hours. You must ring the door bell to be let in.
I don't know how Gianni came in to town. He came from modern Milan. I'll have to ask. Get back on this later. I'll have to pick his brain before I leave.
Monday, December 3, 2012
Last lesson on growing olives
Because Gianni speaks very broken English, it's very difficult to understand what he's saying. In a previous writing, I said that if the olives were left in the tree too long they would rot. Which is why on a few occasions had to have the "mover and shaker" come and shake the trees loose of olives. Well apparently this method of harvesting his olives has only just been going on the past 2 years. Before that, he let the olives fall when they were ready to fall meaning they were ripe. But the weather has changed. Last year and this there has been too much sun and not enough water. Because of this weather change for this area, the olives stay on their branches too long and if not coaxed down, actually start to dry up and doesn't make the best oil. So there it is. Makes so much more sense because everyone knows that fruit drops when it is ready to be eaten. And so the olive does too but only if Mother Nature cooperates.
This is the last week to collect the olives. I survived it-7 weeks of grueling, agonizing work-6 days a week using my one day off most weeks to just rest.
We collected about 17 ton of olives from the 1220 trees. (actually some of these 1220 trees gave us no olives because they were pruned last year). They will grow many olives next year. So possibly 800-900 trees gave olives. It was the best year for quality Gianni has ever had. Almost 0 acidity. And about 3000 Liters of oil. He has been doing this for 22 years. He's had WWOOFers every year.
Also, inside each olive are many tiny "capsules" where the oil actually is. These capsules must be broken open to extract the oil. I'm done.
I need to get on to my new place and PICK SOME AVOCADOS!! But first, 4 days at the sea!
CIAO
Friday, November 30, 2012
CHIVALRY IS DEAD
NOV. 30TH FRI.
For all you women out there who struggled with a heavy box or grocery bag while a man stood by letting you struggle, this is the meaning of "chivalry is dead". Once upon a time men wouldn't let a woman struggle with a heavy item or would step up their pace to open a door for a lady. Some men still do this but it is non-existant here at the olive farm.
So here we have 3 people working at collecting the olives. 2 are men and me. The first person pulls up the nets and organizes the olives into one pile at a particular place in the net. The next person skims the surface of the pile to remove some of the leaves and sticks. A machine actually removes all of these at the factory. And then scoops olives into buckets or lifts the net when there is no more than a bucket-full to pour into it. Then carries 2 buckets at a time to the 'cassette' at the van to be loaded to bring to the factory. The third person looks to determine if there are still enough olives in the tree to warrant replacing the net for another round of collecting. Then puts in down, secured with rocks or rolls it up to be brought to an area for proper folding. Guess which person I am. I am the one who does the hardest bull work at getting the olives in the buckets and then carries them to the van. This hurts a lot!
These buckets are heavy and sometimes the distance to carry them is quite long.
A cassette is a plastic box about twice the size of a milk crate. I also have to carry these cassettes filled with firewood up a flight of stairs to my apartment so I can have a fire in the fireplace. It's been getting cold at night. There is no other heat.
Just when I thought I could not carry any more weight at one time, I get to fill these buckets with rocks and carry them to the wall for next years' net placement. Probably 50-60lbs. each. And carrying these rock filled buckets through a soft (mud-like) terrain adds to the difficulty.
Looking forward to the end of this olive harvest.
For all you women out there who struggled with a heavy box or grocery bag while a man stood by letting you struggle, this is the meaning of "chivalry is dead". Once upon a time men wouldn't let a woman struggle with a heavy item or would step up their pace to open a door for a lady. Some men still do this but it is non-existant here at the olive farm.
So here we have 3 people working at collecting the olives. 2 are men and me. The first person pulls up the nets and organizes the olives into one pile at a particular place in the net. The next person skims the surface of the pile to remove some of the leaves and sticks. A machine actually removes all of these at the factory. And then scoops olives into buckets or lifts the net when there is no more than a bucket-full to pour into it. Then carries 2 buckets at a time to the 'cassette' at the van to be loaded to bring to the factory. The third person looks to determine if there are still enough olives in the tree to warrant replacing the net for another round of collecting. Then puts in down, secured with rocks or rolls it up to be brought to an area for proper folding. Guess which person I am. I am the one who does the hardest bull work at getting the olives in the buckets and then carries them to the van. This hurts a lot!
These buckets are heavy and sometimes the distance to carry them is quite long.
A cassette is a plastic box about twice the size of a milk crate. I also have to carry these cassettes filled with firewood up a flight of stairs to my apartment so I can have a fire in the fireplace. It's been getting cold at night. There is no other heat.
Just when I thought I could not carry any more weight at one time, I get to fill these buckets with rocks and carry them to the wall for next years' net placement. Probably 50-60lbs. each. And carrying these rock filled buckets through a soft (mud-like) terrain adds to the difficulty.
Looking forward to the end of this olive harvest.
Wednesday, November 28, 2012
A day to relax
Nov. 28th Wednesday
I started my day off with walking down to the bus stop at 6 a.m. with Andrea. She was taking the bus to the train station. I've always felt like she needed some mothering during most of her time here. She's only been here 2 weeks and worked all of I think 5 full 5 1/2 hr. shifts because of the weather. She really has no idea what really hard work is on an olive farm. Yet she complained A LOT!
I mentioned a while back about the "fly lures" hanging in each olive tree. They are plastic bottles, like liter size soda bottles half filled with sardine stuff. It smells really bad and if you're working on a tree and the wind is just right, the smell is almost unbearable. And they have dead flies floating in it. Well, Andrea liked to play word games. One was; If you had to either drink one of those bottles or work every day at this olive harvest for one year, what would you do? She actually chose to drink one of the sardine bottles.
So anyway, the bus to the train station was 10 min. late. It was supposed to be there at 6:25 and the train to Rome was leaving at 6:45. Don't know if she made it. She'll email me when she gets to Rome.
So I went to work with Gianni and Franco. It's just the 3 of us now. We got a real lot done in the 2 hours before it started to POUR!! And the wind got real strong and there was thunder. So we all high-tailed it out of there, soaked and very dirty. The wind hasn't stopped yet and it's almost 6 p.m.
I got a fire in the fireplace and music videos on the tv. Andrea found the station that plays music videos non-stop. No commercials. Up until she came I never turned the tv on. It's nice having music and I know all the songs. They're from the 60's, 70's and 80's.
I've started making a picture collection of PIAGGIOS. They're usually 3-wheeled little vehicles. Some bigger ones have 4 wheels. But they're actually just a scooter(Vespa) enclosed with a little pickup back. And they're everywhere. Gianni pronounces it as PEEKIO. Since I am in olive country here, all of our neighbors out towards the sea are just starting to sweep the olives. That is what conventional farmers do to get their olives up off the ground and to the oil factory. Up until this week, I never saw anyone else out there collecting olives from their trees. And PEEKIOS are a part of most every farm. So I see more of them now than ever. I saw one on the AutoStrada a few weeks ago going to Bari. It was in the very right hand lane going, I'm guessing about 40 m.p.h. or less.
For the first time since I've been here, Gianni said "tomorrow, you relax". I have a whole day off during the week! And busses are frequent to many little towns. I just have to pick one and explore.
Why do I hear gun shots almost every night?
The big orange and white Tom Cat came to see me today. Full of conversation-purring-kneading. Beautiful, beautiful cat. Definitely not wild and not hungry.
I started my day off with walking down to the bus stop at 6 a.m. with Andrea. She was taking the bus to the train station. I've always felt like she needed some mothering during most of her time here. She's only been here 2 weeks and worked all of I think 5 full 5 1/2 hr. shifts because of the weather. She really has no idea what really hard work is on an olive farm. Yet she complained A LOT!
I mentioned a while back about the "fly lures" hanging in each olive tree. They are plastic bottles, like liter size soda bottles half filled with sardine stuff. It smells really bad and if you're working on a tree and the wind is just right, the smell is almost unbearable. And they have dead flies floating in it. Well, Andrea liked to play word games. One was; If you had to either drink one of those bottles or work every day at this olive harvest for one year, what would you do? She actually chose to drink one of the sardine bottles.
So anyway, the bus to the train station was 10 min. late. It was supposed to be there at 6:25 and the train to Rome was leaving at 6:45. Don't know if she made it. She'll email me when she gets to Rome.
So I went to work with Gianni and Franco. It's just the 3 of us now. We got a real lot done in the 2 hours before it started to POUR!! And the wind got real strong and there was thunder. So we all high-tailed it out of there, soaked and very dirty. The wind hasn't stopped yet and it's almost 6 p.m.
I got a fire in the fireplace and music videos on the tv. Andrea found the station that plays music videos non-stop. No commercials. Up until she came I never turned the tv on. It's nice having music and I know all the songs. They're from the 60's, 70's and 80's.
I've started making a picture collection of PIAGGIOS. They're usually 3-wheeled little vehicles. Some bigger ones have 4 wheels. But they're actually just a scooter(Vespa) enclosed with a little pickup back. And they're everywhere. Gianni pronounces it as PEEKIO. Since I am in olive country here, all of our neighbors out towards the sea are just starting to sweep the olives. That is what conventional farmers do to get their olives up off the ground and to the oil factory. Up until this week, I never saw anyone else out there collecting olives from their trees. And PEEKIOS are a part of most every farm. So I see more of them now than ever. I saw one on the AutoStrada a few weeks ago going to Bari. It was in the very right hand lane going, I'm guessing about 40 m.p.h. or less.
For the first time since I've been here, Gianni said "tomorrow, you relax". I have a whole day off during the week! And busses are frequent to many little towns. I just have to pick one and explore.
Why do I hear gun shots almost every night?
The big orange and white Tom Cat came to see me today. Full of conversation-purring-kneading. Beautiful, beautiful cat. Definitely not wild and not hungry.
Friday, November 23, 2012
5 weeks today
Nov. 24th 2012 Saturday
5 weeks ago today I arrived at the Carovigno train station after spending 5 hours on a very lovely train ride from Telese. The countryside dramatically changed from rolling, green and brown (rich dirt) farmland to flatter, dryer, sparsely used farms. Perhaps they were in-between plantings; from their Summer crops to now Winter ones. I saw a few tractors skimming the ground perhaps getting ready to plant. As the train ride continued, especially from Foggia on to Carovigno, there were many, many windmills and some solar. Back at the other farm, I only saw one area on a mountaintop near San Salvatore where there were windmills. This was such a beautiful sight. As I got closer to Bari and the Puglia region, all I could see were olive trees. And that is all I've seen everyday since.
Heli arrived the same day as I at the apartment we both lived in, in the downtown of Carovigno. So starting to work at the olive farm, a 15 min. ride by car (Junior) found us both on equal ground; both not working an olive harvest till now. And we worked HARD. We both ached all day, every day.
Heli stayed for her scheduled 3 weeks during which time we got 2 mornings off because of rain. But we did work those afternoons for 3 hrs. which felt like a gift. All Saints day was an entire day off. It was a Thursday. Andrea was supposed to arrive the same day that Heli left so there would be no time when I would have to work alone. But she didn't arrive until 5 days later leaving Gianni wondering if she would ever show up or email. Today, Andrea has been here 11 days. With all the rain we have had, we only worked 3 full 5 1/2 hr. shifts in all of these 11 days! We had a few full days off and a few shifts where we worked 3 hrs. or less. On Andreas first day, we picked the olives from a baby tree that took all of 30 min. when we had to leave because the rain started. One day it started to rain but we continued to work, getting soaked, having to PEEL my clothes off. That was NOT a good day. And then of course as a result of all this rain, the start of the mud. (another page in this blog).
The whole point of this story is that since Andrea has been here, I have had so much time off. Good for me and my sore muscles but with Andrea leaving here next Wed., this does not leave her with a true representation of what working an olive harvest is really like. She's 29, graduated with a Masters degree in I don't know what and is not sure where she will be going or what she will be doing. All she knows is she wants to go to Rome for a week and see that wonderful city, staying at a youth hostel. She maintains a one-room studio apartment in downtown Berlin, Germany. She sublet it for 500Euro/ month until Dec. 31st. Her rent in 300Euro/month.
We had many laughs together. She has a great sense of humor. But she is an extremely messy roommate; leaving food out all night, dishes in the sink etc. After she leaves I will have to work alone again. Gianni did not plan on her staying only 2 weeks. She was supposed to stay until I left so we would work together as working with the really big nets (36x36 ft.) is difficult by yourself. I have met a few wonderful and interesting people. All different. Andrea is brutally honest which I admire. I believe we may keep in touch.
Although I have no written commitment to stay and I could always leave anytime, I will not. Finishing what I started is more important than the aches I feel. I don't mind. Sicily is near.
5 weeks ago today I arrived at the Carovigno train station after spending 5 hours on a very lovely train ride from Telese. The countryside dramatically changed from rolling, green and brown (rich dirt) farmland to flatter, dryer, sparsely used farms. Perhaps they were in-between plantings; from their Summer crops to now Winter ones. I saw a few tractors skimming the ground perhaps getting ready to plant. As the train ride continued, especially from Foggia on to Carovigno, there were many, many windmills and some solar. Back at the other farm, I only saw one area on a mountaintop near San Salvatore where there were windmills. This was such a beautiful sight. As I got closer to Bari and the Puglia region, all I could see were olive trees. And that is all I've seen everyday since.
Heli arrived the same day as I at the apartment we both lived in, in the downtown of Carovigno. So starting to work at the olive farm, a 15 min. ride by car (Junior) found us both on equal ground; both not working an olive harvest till now. And we worked HARD. We both ached all day, every day.
Heli stayed for her scheduled 3 weeks during which time we got 2 mornings off because of rain. But we did work those afternoons for 3 hrs. which felt like a gift. All Saints day was an entire day off. It was a Thursday. Andrea was supposed to arrive the same day that Heli left so there would be no time when I would have to work alone. But she didn't arrive until 5 days later leaving Gianni wondering if she would ever show up or email. Today, Andrea has been here 11 days. With all the rain we have had, we only worked 3 full 5 1/2 hr. shifts in all of these 11 days! We had a few full days off and a few shifts where we worked 3 hrs. or less. On Andreas first day, we picked the olives from a baby tree that took all of 30 min. when we had to leave because the rain started. One day it started to rain but we continued to work, getting soaked, having to PEEL my clothes off. That was NOT a good day. And then of course as a result of all this rain, the start of the mud. (another page in this blog).
The whole point of this story is that since Andrea has been here, I have had so much time off. Good for me and my sore muscles but with Andrea leaving here next Wed., this does not leave her with a true representation of what working an olive harvest is really like. She's 29, graduated with a Masters degree in I don't know what and is not sure where she will be going or what she will be doing. All she knows is she wants to go to Rome for a week and see that wonderful city, staying at a youth hostel. She maintains a one-room studio apartment in downtown Berlin, Germany. She sublet it for 500Euro/ month until Dec. 31st. Her rent in 300Euro/month.
We had many laughs together. She has a great sense of humor. But she is an extremely messy roommate; leaving food out all night, dishes in the sink etc. After she leaves I will have to work alone again. Gianni did not plan on her staying only 2 weeks. She was supposed to stay until I left so we would work together as working with the really big nets (36x36 ft.) is difficult by yourself. I have met a few wonderful and interesting people. All different. Andrea is brutally honest which I admire. I believe we may keep in touch.
Although I have no written commitment to stay and I could always leave anytime, I will not. Finishing what I started is more important than the aches I feel. I don't mind. Sicily is near.
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