LAST DAY AT PALAZZO GALLOTTI
I thought leaving here to go to the next farm was going to be easier. I've gotten very comfortable here and been allowed to do pretty much what I want given the ITALIAN guidelines. It's been fairly easy making food that is acceptable to the Italian man (Roberto). Miriam always said I could do anything I wanted as long as it was healthy. But I had to stick to the Italian protocol. I had to learn what to serve with what and when. You never mix courses. I always tried to put a spin on breakfast; changing it up a little but in keeping with what this part of the country eats for that meal. It might be something very simple like putting a few black olives around the sliced tomatoes with a few tiny basil leaves. Sounds like nothing but when you're used to the same Italian bread, sliced tomatoes and sliced cheese for breakfast, adding a few little touches was very appreciated by my hosts. But what they will really miss that I started here was getting up early and making some kind of cake with the fruit from our own trees. The Italians don't eat eggs for breakfast. They like cake and extra strong coffee. Miriam doesn't bake. She and Roberto will miss me and all the sweets I made. Plus if there were any leftovers from breakfast, Roberto would inevitably come looking in the kitchen in the afternoon for something sweet.
I will miss MiMi the cat who finally after 6 whole weeks of not letting me pet her unless she was eating, lets me and will come down inside my kitchen and cry to be petted. I'll miss her. The sheep now come charging to me when they see me hoping for food. The first few days they were here they were scared to death of me. We just got 2 new chickens last night. Won't be able to get to know them. I will NOT miss Sophia. She is a brat and I have no problem admitting that. She can and does give her grandmother a hard time now. Miriams mom will be staying until they all leave here to go back to Munich for 2 months. I don't know who will take care of the animals while they are gone. Can't worry about it. Roberto has mentioned a few times that he thinks I should stay here to take care of them. Don't know if he's serious. I have commitments elsewhere so I've never had any comment.
Katia came by last night through the main gate and into the hallway that leads to the fountain and shouted my name a few times. She came by to give me a hug and say goodbye. Dora came in to see me this morning also to say goodbye. I'll keep in touch with Miriam via email. She said she would like me to come back for the Spring planting next year.
Today I learned that by letting the broccoli (rabe) go to seed and pulling it up, letting it dry, you can get a whole lot of seeds for the next planting. That is what Miriam's mom and I did today-took out all these tiny, tiny seeds that will be planted maybe tomorrow in the place where we dug the potatoes. They should have broccoli rate in 60-90 days. So the planting goes on and so will I.
Friday, August 31, 2012
Thursday, August 30, 2012
TRIP TO PAOLA
AUGUST 30TH THURSDAY
When I woke up yesterday at 6 a.m. I decided to get on the 7:15 bus that goes by here, go to Sapri, and then look at the train schedule to see where I could go for the day and be able to return by 6:30 to get the last bus back to Battaglia. Sicily was out of the question. It was a 6 hr. train ride and I wouldn't be able to leave until 11 a.m., get there at 5. So I went to Paola. I would pronounce it like PAYOLA, the term Italians use when they have to pay someone for protection. It's not pronounced that way.
The train would be leaving shortly so that was good and it would only take an hour and 15 min. It was the last train station for that train. On the way I got to ride along the coast through some really cool towns right on the beach. Many had really big sandy beaches with many umbrellas and lounge chairs. Unlike Sapri which has a very rocky beach-no sand.
I went through towns like Praja, Scalea, Diamante Buonvicino, Belvedere Marittimo, Capo Bonifati, Cetraro, Aquapessa and Guardia. These were all train stops.
When I got off at the train station which was quite large, I had to walk a very short walk to the beach. It was another one of these beaches with umbrellas and lounge chairs all set up. So I just picked out one and claimed it knowing it probably was paid by someone to use it. But if they came I would just move. There were plenty of empty chairs and it was already 11 a.m.
As I'm sitting there on the chair I can hear the people next to me speaking perfect English. So of course I had to go over and tell them hearing English was music to my ears. They were all from New Jersey visiting their sister who moved to Rome when she was 18-some 35 years ago. They showed a lot of interest in what I was doing so we all had a nice chat. A lady did come and claim her chair. So I moved but ended up spending most of my 3 hrs. on the beach in the water. It was very, very nice. Small waves, strong undertow. Really difficult getting out. Kept falling and getting pulled back out. It was a very nice day. Still didn't burn though.
The train trip back was in a car that was not air conditioned so I could open the windows which is better because then I can stick my head out and really see the view. Sometimes the windows on these trains are so dirty, you can't see too clearly. But this trip back was perfect just like my day.
Today I am making roasted yellow tomato sauce and meatless meatballs made with eggplant. Saw it on the menu yesterday and never thought of doing it with eggplant. They came out great!
Miriam, Roberto and the girls went to the beach today at Carla's. Sometimes they tell me stuff that I've never heard before. Like today they said they had to get to the beach early because it's when the iodine is at it's highest in the air from the ocean and it's good for the kids. I'll have to GOOGLE it
When I woke up yesterday at 6 a.m. I decided to get on the 7:15 bus that goes by here, go to Sapri, and then look at the train schedule to see where I could go for the day and be able to return by 6:30 to get the last bus back to Battaglia. Sicily was out of the question. It was a 6 hr. train ride and I wouldn't be able to leave until 11 a.m., get there at 5. So I went to Paola. I would pronounce it like PAYOLA, the term Italians use when they have to pay someone for protection. It's not pronounced that way.
The train would be leaving shortly so that was good and it would only take an hour and 15 min. It was the last train station for that train. On the way I got to ride along the coast through some really cool towns right on the beach. Many had really big sandy beaches with many umbrellas and lounge chairs. Unlike Sapri which has a very rocky beach-no sand.
I went through towns like Praja, Scalea, Diamante Buonvicino, Belvedere Marittimo, Capo Bonifati, Cetraro, Aquapessa and Guardia. These were all train stops.
When I got off at the train station which was quite large, I had to walk a very short walk to the beach. It was another one of these beaches with umbrellas and lounge chairs all set up. So I just picked out one and claimed it knowing it probably was paid by someone to use it. But if they came I would just move. There were plenty of empty chairs and it was already 11 a.m.
As I'm sitting there on the chair I can hear the people next to me speaking perfect English. So of course I had to go over and tell them hearing English was music to my ears. They were all from New Jersey visiting their sister who moved to Rome when she was 18-some 35 years ago. They showed a lot of interest in what I was doing so we all had a nice chat. A lady did come and claim her chair. So I moved but ended up spending most of my 3 hrs. on the beach in the water. It was very, very nice. Small waves, strong undertow. Really difficult getting out. Kept falling and getting pulled back out. It was a very nice day. Still didn't burn though.
The train trip back was in a car that was not air conditioned so I could open the windows which is better because then I can stick my head out and really see the view. Sometimes the windows on these trains are so dirty, you can't see too clearly. But this trip back was perfect just like my day.
Today I am making roasted yellow tomato sauce and meatless meatballs made with eggplant. Saw it on the menu yesterday and never thought of doing it with eggplant. They came out great!
Miriam, Roberto and the girls went to the beach today at Carla's. Sometimes they tell me stuff that I've never heard before. Like today they said they had to get to the beach early because it's when the iodine is at it's highest in the air from the ocean and it's good for the kids. I'll have to GOOGLE it
Tuesday, August 28, 2012
MARATEA
August 28 Tuesday
I went back to Maratea after learning that the first time I went there I really did not see the center of town. And there was the statue. I could see the statue from where I got off the train. It was very high up on the hill overlooking the ocean and the valley. I wanted to go up there on my first trip but with no one at the train station to help me, I decided to just go down to the coast and see the ocean. That was the first time in Maratea. I had to go back. Before I did I looked it up on the computer to get any info that would help me. I knew I couldn't walk up there. It was just too far and if I did walk I'd have to walk down and I didn't know if I could do that. So I took a taxi up there. Good thing. It was a really long trip. When I got up on top I was even with the top of the clouds. It was so much higher that it looked from down below. The statue is of Christ and it's about 60 feet high. It was built in 1960 among the ruins that were so old there wasn't much left to them.
So then I had to take a taxi down to the center of Maratea. Most of the center is shops with stone walkways where no cars are allowed. So I walked around and then went in to a store and when I came out there was not one person outside and all the shops were closed. It was 2 p.m. It happened so fast. (siesta) I couldn't imagine where all the people went. So I started walking down. Back to the train station. It was a lovely walk-hardly any cars. I got to walk among the houses on the very windy, narrow road. It took me an hour and a half. It was 6km or 4 miles. I thought maybe I could catch a train that stopped in a beach town on the way back to Sapri called Aquafredda. But no train was stopping there. So I went back to Sapri a little early and decided to look for my calico. Maybe I could feed her again. But she wasn't where I'd seen her before.
I had a wonderful day on top of that mountain overlooking the sea.
I went back to Maratea after learning that the first time I went there I really did not see the center of town. And there was the statue. I could see the statue from where I got off the train. It was very high up on the hill overlooking the ocean and the valley. I wanted to go up there on my first trip but with no one at the train station to help me, I decided to just go down to the coast and see the ocean. That was the first time in Maratea. I had to go back. Before I did I looked it up on the computer to get any info that would help me. I knew I couldn't walk up there. It was just too far and if I did walk I'd have to walk down and I didn't know if I could do that. So I took a taxi up there. Good thing. It was a really long trip. When I got up on top I was even with the top of the clouds. It was so much higher that it looked from down below. The statue is of Christ and it's about 60 feet high. It was built in 1960 among the ruins that were so old there wasn't much left to them.
So then I had to take a taxi down to the center of Maratea. Most of the center is shops with stone walkways where no cars are allowed. So I walked around and then went in to a store and when I came out there was not one person outside and all the shops were closed. It was 2 p.m. It happened so fast. (siesta) I couldn't imagine where all the people went. So I started walking down. Back to the train station. It was a lovely walk-hardly any cars. I got to walk among the houses on the very windy, narrow road. It took me an hour and a half. It was 6km or 4 miles. I thought maybe I could catch a train that stopped in a beach town on the way back to Sapri called Aquafredda. But no train was stopping there. So I went back to Sapri a little early and decided to look for my calico. Maybe I could feed her again. But she wasn't where I'd seen her before.
I had a wonderful day on top of that mountain overlooking the sea.
Sunday, August 26, 2012
DORA'S meatball soup
DORA'S MEATBALL SOUP
First make the vegetable broth with
zucchini
onion
potato
any other veggies you have that are fresh but NO garlic
Fill the pot up with water and cook till all the veggies are barely recognizable
Then: freshly ground beef, white bread (no crust) soaked in milk, squeezed dry, egg, parm.
chopped parsley
form these by hand into small meatballs
take out all veggies and put them into blender
add perfectly formed meatballs into simmering broth
after a few minutes, add pureed veggies to soup
Sprinkle freshly grated parm onto each bowl
FINI
First make the vegetable broth with
zucchini
onion
potato
any other veggies you have that are fresh but NO garlic
Fill the pot up with water and cook till all the veggies are barely recognizable
Then: freshly ground beef, white bread (no crust) soaked in milk, squeezed dry, egg, parm.
chopped parsley
form these by hand into small meatballs
take out all veggies and put them into blender
add perfectly formed meatballs into simmering broth
after a few minutes, add pureed veggies to soup
Sprinkle freshly grated parm onto each bowl
FINI
quiet Sunday and Catia
SUNDAY AUGUST 26TH
This place is so quiet right now. It's 3 p.m. and I just came upstairs from my room and I
don't know who is here. I smell sauce (suco) cooking in Dora's kitchen. Christain's car is
gone so I think they all went out. The grandmother left to fly home with her son (Miriam's dad) but could Miriam, her mom, sister, 2 kids and Roberto all fit in the one car? Josie, his wife (Ida), their 2 kids Gulia(Julia) who's 8 and Luca who is 6 left to go back home today too. They live in Rome. Ida works for the Italian Senate. Josie, not sure. Ida said something funny the other day. It sounded funny to me. She said she and the 2 kids stayed here last week while Josie had to go back to Rome to work. And said that it was better here for her kids because "there's nothing to do in Rome"! For me , a tourist, I loved being in Rome but I know if you live there it's no big deal. Josie is the son of the son of the Baron (deceased). He and his family usually only spend one week a year here in his apartment. This year they spent 2.
I realized the other day when I got locked out of the castle and had to ring a door bell that there is a door bell for each of the apartments here. I also got the correct spelling of all the names. Here it goes:
MARIA
CARLA
GIUSEPPE
PROSPERINA
MARIO
GIOSUE (Josie)
And of course Roberto has his own. I don't know why. His 2 sisters don't have one.
So Mario has an apartment here in the castle and one across the street that no one lives in. That's where I stayed for 2 nights during while the wedding guests were all here.
I think I'll have to ask Mario to show me his home on the mountainside outside Tortorella.
Roberto had to photograph it for some magazine because it was so beautiful.
CATIA
This morning I went to church down the hill. After church Catia caught me and said she wanted me to come back to her apartment in town. She speaks no English. She is 50, lives with her mom in an apartment on the hill on the way down from the castle. But we've kind of learned to communicate a little. She wanted me to give her some recipes. So after going back home to the castle to tell Miriam Catia wanted me, I returned. What an experience it was being with this 90 lb. very exuberant, way too much energy, in your face Italian woman! She knows I don't understand when she goes on and on about something. I can only understand what she's saying if she goes slow and uses a lot of hand gestures. And then her mother comes over, in my face too and goes on and on in Italian and I'm just about in tears. It took some time but I was able to give her the recipe to the lemon curd that I'd made for the wedding that people still talk to me about and the sponge cake that I made as the wedding cake too. The conversion from cups to grams was the easiest part. It was the instructions that took a lot of patience. But we got through it. Then I had to stay for lunch. Her mom cooked. First I had gnocchi with sauce, then eggplant 2 ways and then potatoes cooked in olive oil and some kind of beef that was so tender and delicious I wanted to ask what it was but by this time I was exhausted with the translation problem. Before we ate, Catia and I made Nutella muffins together. She gave me 3 to take back home. To drink with dinner, Catia put about 10 drops of white wine in her glass then filled it with water. Her mom put about a quarter of a glass of red wine and the rest filled with water. I had a full glass of white wine. When they were dishing out the gnocchi they were in each others' face about exactly how much to give me and how much each of them were going to have. Very funny. Her mom took bread to wipe her plate clean at the end. And then we had to have fruit. Out comes the bowl of fresh fruit-grapes, figs, banana, pear and plums. I had 1 fig. I was stuffed. Had to go home to lay down I was so full.
Their apartment is exactly what I would have imagined. Many, many figurines and little statues everywhere. The kitchen was kept very dark. It was hard for me to see in there while her mom cooked. The dining table and chair set had many types of wood inlayed-very beautiful and it did not have one single scratch in it. Looked like it had never been used even though we were all sitting at it. The hutch that matched (it was huge) was jammed packed full of little nicknacks and figurines. Everything in their apartment is covered with tile. Not stone like the castle.
Before Catia sat down to eat, she went and kissed her fathers' picture.
This place is so quiet right now. It's 3 p.m. and I just came upstairs from my room and I
don't know who is here. I smell sauce (suco) cooking in Dora's kitchen. Christain's car is
gone so I think they all went out. The grandmother left to fly home with her son (Miriam's dad) but could Miriam, her mom, sister, 2 kids and Roberto all fit in the one car? Josie, his wife (Ida), their 2 kids Gulia(Julia) who's 8 and Luca who is 6 left to go back home today too. They live in Rome. Ida works for the Italian Senate. Josie, not sure. Ida said something funny the other day. It sounded funny to me. She said she and the 2 kids stayed here last week while Josie had to go back to Rome to work. And said that it was better here for her kids because "there's nothing to do in Rome"! For me , a tourist, I loved being in Rome but I know if you live there it's no big deal. Josie is the son of the son of the Baron (deceased). He and his family usually only spend one week a year here in his apartment. This year they spent 2.
I realized the other day when I got locked out of the castle and had to ring a door bell that there is a door bell for each of the apartments here. I also got the correct spelling of all the names. Here it goes:
MARIA
CARLA
GIUSEPPE
PROSPERINA
MARIO
GIOSUE (Josie)
And of course Roberto has his own. I don't know why. His 2 sisters don't have one.
So Mario has an apartment here in the castle and one across the street that no one lives in. That's where I stayed for 2 nights during while the wedding guests were all here.
I think I'll have to ask Mario to show me his home on the mountainside outside Tortorella.
Roberto had to photograph it for some magazine because it was so beautiful.
CATIA
This morning I went to church down the hill. After church Catia caught me and said she wanted me to come back to her apartment in town. She speaks no English. She is 50, lives with her mom in an apartment on the hill on the way down from the castle. But we've kind of learned to communicate a little. She wanted me to give her some recipes. So after going back home to the castle to tell Miriam Catia wanted me, I returned. What an experience it was being with this 90 lb. very exuberant, way too much energy, in your face Italian woman! She knows I don't understand when she goes on and on about something. I can only understand what she's saying if she goes slow and uses a lot of hand gestures. And then her mother comes over, in my face too and goes on and on in Italian and I'm just about in tears. It took some time but I was able to give her the recipe to the lemon curd that I'd made for the wedding that people still talk to me about and the sponge cake that I made as the wedding cake too. The conversion from cups to grams was the easiest part. It was the instructions that took a lot of patience. But we got through it. Then I had to stay for lunch. Her mom cooked. First I had gnocchi with sauce, then eggplant 2 ways and then potatoes cooked in olive oil and some kind of beef that was so tender and delicious I wanted to ask what it was but by this time I was exhausted with the translation problem. Before we ate, Catia and I made Nutella muffins together. She gave me 3 to take back home. To drink with dinner, Catia put about 10 drops of white wine in her glass then filled it with water. Her mom put about a quarter of a glass of red wine and the rest filled with water. I had a full glass of white wine. When they were dishing out the gnocchi they were in each others' face about exactly how much to give me and how much each of them were going to have. Very funny. Her mom took bread to wipe her plate clean at the end. And then we had to have fruit. Out comes the bowl of fresh fruit-grapes, figs, banana, pear and plums. I had 1 fig. I was stuffed. Had to go home to lay down I was so full.
Their apartment is exactly what I would have imagined. Many, many figurines and little statues everywhere. The kitchen was kept very dark. It was hard for me to see in there while her mom cooked. The dining table and chair set had many types of wood inlayed-very beautiful and it did not have one single scratch in it. Looked like it had never been used even though we were all sitting at it. The hutch that matched (it was huge) was jammed packed full of little nicknacks and figurines. Everything in their apartment is covered with tile. Not stone like the castle.
Before Catia sat down to eat, she went and kissed her fathers' picture.
Friday, August 24, 2012
The Germans
THE INVASION OF THE GERMANS
Since Miriam is from Germany, she invited her whole German family to Sara's Baptism. And everybody came. Just when I was getting the hang of understanding a little of a conversation in Italian, now I have to listen to and try to understand German!!
First there's Grandma (Sophia) who is 88, speaks NO English, knows I do not speak or understand any German but will continually try talking to me in German. She's sweet, always smiling. She is little Sophia's namesake.
Then there's Miriams' mom. She too cannot speak or understand English. She's very, very nice and always happy no matter what's going on. She really loves being with her two granddaughters. She's 63. She will be staying until the middle of October and going back to Munich with Miriam, Roberto and the girls. She's a huge help with the children when Miriam wants to get to the garden. She can speak German to Sophia. I cannot.
Christain-Miriam's brother. Up until yesterday I thought her did not understand or speak any English. But he was fooling everyone. As soon as he laughed really hard at something I said (I called Roberto Mr. Clean), I shouted "You do speak English". So now since he knows of some extra things I want to do on the computer and he is a computer wiz, he's helping me and the language barrier is down.
Sylvia is Miriam's sister-looks almost identical to her. She came all the way from Vancover for 2 weeks. She is a horse trainer there so we had some things we could talk about and understand. She speaks fluent English and of course German.
Miriam's dad and wife (stepmom) are here in Italy too but staying in Maratea. I met them at the Baptism but just for a few minutes.
So the Germans are here until Tuesday. Then they will get back in Christian's Audi and drive back to Munich. 16 hours later they'll be home again.
All very, very nice people
DAY AFTER MY DAY OFF
FRIDAY AUGUST 24TH
Yesterday was a much needed day off so I got on the 7:20 a.m. bus to Sapri. I decided to stay there rather than take a train or another bus to another town. I had brought a duffle bag of stuff so I could claim my spot on the beach with more than just my purse and this bag was too much to carry along on a walking day. If I went to Maratea, I would have to walk a lot to get to the water. I like Sapri because now I know my way around. The restaurant I had eaten at before was the one on the beach and was planning to go to again. Then I found out the owner of that restaurant was originally from Connecticut. Watertown to be exact. She spoke better English than anyone I've met so far in Italy.
Someone said in Sapri that yesterday was probably one of the hottest so far this summer. I think converted from Celsius it was 104 Fahrenheit. So I went swimming to cool off. But even after a few minutes in the water, I was too hot and had to get out of the sun.
Like every other trip (all 3 of them) I've made to Sapri I get my favorite pizza to go from Pizza Up. I get a cheese pizza with arugula, cherry tomatoes and anchovies. As I'm carrying this pizza to get the bus, I see a calico kitty pawing at something. She wasn't afraid when I got close but what I saw was so sad. She was eating a cigarette butt. She was starving. So I sat down on the sidewalk and shared my pizza with her. She ate so much and while she was eating she was kneading the sidewalk-so happy. If I could have brought her back somehow I would have. But there are so many homeless, starving cats and dogs here that you don't know where to begin. I know I'll be back at least one more time to Sapri and I will take along a bag of cat food at look for her. But I don't think I'll find her. But I know I'll have no trouble finding another grateful recipient.
Today is kind of a slow day with all of Miriams' family here so I decided to roast some cherry tomatoes. We have so many. Two people have told Miriam that these cherry tomatoes in particular are Winter Tomatoes. You are supposed to hang them up to dry. Never heard of that. Will have to GOOGLE it.
Yesterday was a much needed day off so I got on the 7:20 a.m. bus to Sapri. I decided to stay there rather than take a train or another bus to another town. I had brought a duffle bag of stuff so I could claim my spot on the beach with more than just my purse and this bag was too much to carry along on a walking day. If I went to Maratea, I would have to walk a lot to get to the water. I like Sapri because now I know my way around. The restaurant I had eaten at before was the one on the beach and was planning to go to again. Then I found out the owner of that restaurant was originally from Connecticut. Watertown to be exact. She spoke better English than anyone I've met so far in Italy.
Someone said in Sapri that yesterday was probably one of the hottest so far this summer. I think converted from Celsius it was 104 Fahrenheit. So I went swimming to cool off. But even after a few minutes in the water, I was too hot and had to get out of the sun.
Like every other trip (all 3 of them) I've made to Sapri I get my favorite pizza to go from Pizza Up. I get a cheese pizza with arugula, cherry tomatoes and anchovies. As I'm carrying this pizza to get the bus, I see a calico kitty pawing at something. She wasn't afraid when I got close but what I saw was so sad. She was eating a cigarette butt. She was starving. So I sat down on the sidewalk and shared my pizza with her. She ate so much and while she was eating she was kneading the sidewalk-so happy. If I could have brought her back somehow I would have. But there are so many homeless, starving cats and dogs here that you don't know where to begin. I know I'll be back at least one more time to Sapri and I will take along a bag of cat food at look for her. But I don't think I'll find her. But I know I'll have no trouble finding another grateful recipient.
Today is kind of a slow day with all of Miriams' family here so I decided to roast some cherry tomatoes. We have so many. Two people have told Miriam that these cherry tomatoes in particular are Winter Tomatoes. You are supposed to hang them up to dry. Never heard of that. Will have to GOOGLE it.
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